Ribbed Shawlette

The Ribbed Shawlette is my version of a combination of the [Kwoosh Shawlette] http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kwoosh-shawlette-scarf for the shape and the [Wavy Baktus Scarf] http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wellenbaktus-wavy-baktus (both seen on Ravelry) for the texture of the 'waves'.

Yarn: Any Fingering or Sock yarn, approx. 460+ yds or 1 skein each of two colors. Needle: US 4 / 3.5mm Size: Approximately 29 inches along shortest edge, 42 inches along medium edge, 62 inches along longest edge

Stitches used K - Knit P - Purl k2tog …

The Ribbed Shawlette is my version of a combination of the [Kwoosh Shawlette] http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/kwoosh-shawlette-scarf for the shape and the [Wavy Baktus Scarf] http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wellenbaktus-wavy-baktus (both seen on Ravelry) for the texture of the 'waves'.

Yarn: Any Fingering or Sock yarn, approx. 460+ yds or 1 skein each of two colors. Needle: US 4 / 3.5mm Size: Approximately 29 inches along shortest edge, 42 inches along medium edge, 62 inches along longest edge

Stitches used K - Knit P - Purl k2tog - knit two stitches together p2tog - purl two stitches together kfb - knit into the front and back of the stitch pfb - purl into the front and back of the stitch

I used two colors of yarn, alternating 6 rows of each color, changing to the other color on each reverse stockinette stitch section. Using two colors, one color will be more visually prominent on one side and the other color will be more prominent on the other side (see sample in photos). You can also make the shawlette with one color. Be careful to keep the increases (kfb, pfb) on the same edge, as well as the decreases (k2tog, p2tog) on the opposite edge).

Cast on 3 stitches. Follow chart, changing colors after every 6 rows if desired, except on the first color change on row 8. For example, Color A: rows 1-7; Color B: rows 8-13; Color A: rows 14-19, etc. Repeat the instructions, increasing each row by 1 stitch as indicated in the instructions until you run out of yarn or the desired size is reached. The next row in the instructions (row 32) would start with pfb. Carry the colors along the inc edge, working into the end stitch if you can and being sure not to pull it too tight..

Finishing: Do not block unless the points curl a lot, then block very lightly. Don't stretch, just straighten damp shawl & pin in place to dry flat.

Shown with a cast-on count of 3 stitches.   Getting chart...

  • Row 1 (RS): P3.
  • Row 2: Kfb, k2tog.
  • Row 3: P2, pfb (4 sts).
  • Row 4: Kfb, k1, k2tog.
  • Row 5: P3, pfb (5 sts).
  • Row 6: Kfb, k2, k2tog.
  • Row 7: P4, pfb (6 sts).
  • Row 8: Pfb, p3, p2tog.
  • Row 9: K5, kfb (7 sts).
  • Row 10: Pfb, p4, p2tog.
  • Row 11: K6, kfb (8 sts).
  • Row 12: Pfb, p5, p2tog.
  • Row 13: K7, kfb (9 sts).
  • Row 14: Kfb, k6, k2tog.
  • Row 15: P8, pfb (10 sts).
  • Row 16: Kfb, k7, k2tog.
  • Row 17: P9, pfb (11 sts).
  • Row 18: Kfb, k8, k2tog.
  • Row 19: P10, pfb (12 sts).
  • Row 20: Pfb, p9, p2tog.
  • Row 21: K11, kfb (13 sts).
  • Row 22: Pfb, p10, p2tog.
  • Row 23: K12, kfb (14 sts).
  • Row 24: Pfb, p11, p2tog.
  • Row 25: K13, kfb (15 sts).
  • Row 26: Kfb, k12, k2tog.
  • Row 27: P14, pfb (16 sts).
  • Row 28: Kfb, k13, k2tog.
  • Row 29: P15, pfb (17 sts).
  • Row 30: Kfb, k14, k2tog.
  • Row 31: P16, pfb (18 sts).