The hat is made of alternating reverse-stockinette stripes (proud) and stockinette 4-row stripes that are recessed (shy); both types of stripes taper toward the top center. It's made in rows and seamed or knit together at the end. Rows have an increase at the cuff edge, and pairs of rows have two decreases at the center-top end (both in the 2nd short row). The edges slant relative to the bottom and don't match (the decrease edge shouldn't lie flat because of the tapers), and the top edge is not parallel to the bottom (and tends to curl around). Made Version A and Version D with Lion Brand Wool Ease Thick & Quick (very warm), adding a cuff made of Lion Brand Go for Faux Thick & Quick (furry, very soft). Managed to do it with 1 skein of each, plus a tad extra Wool Ease for attaching the two parts (could probably be done with just 1 skein if 26-27 sts and a bit snug).

• This version (C) starts with recessed rows, so that the seam will be recessed.
• I've done both 27 and 30 sts. The 30 sts version is a bit long when the cuff is sewn on. (Version C: 28 sts, but can be adjusted easily.)
• Version C: Start at top (decrease) ends of rows.
• Version C: Short rows are the middle two rows of raised or recessed stripes; the raised (purl) stripes tend to reach further toward the top, but both vary a bit from the length indicated in the map.
• My approach: Provisional cast on (onto a second interchangeable circular); put the one side on hold. (JMCO with slipknot on front/top needle, tail used for front needle; put front/top stitches on hold; turn (rather than flipping) and work back needle; purl bumps should be showing.)
• Mark top (end of first row) and front (first row is WS). Really. You'll lose track.
• (C:) First row is a recessed stripe. Second row begins first raised (purl) stripe from the WS.
• Change increase/decrease style as desired. Map shows kfp/pfb on every row at the ends (to avoid bending the stripes), decreases on every row at the top edge, and two decreases on the second row of short row pairs. In reality, I find pbf to be easier than pfb, but the map software doesn't have this option.
• (C:) Use Sweet Tomato Heels version of short rows: no wrap, just turn. Slip the first stitch. Knit the next two stitches tightly. When knitting across a turning gap, k1below (or p1below) in the slipped stitch (the higher side of the gap).
• My approach: After completing as many rows as needed for a comfortably snug fit (end with Row 6), join the working stitches with held stitches using stacked decreases. (If working on wrong side, center of a recessed (WS-purl) stripe, starting with both needles loaded with stitches and tips at the same edge (cuff), purls showing on both needles: Slip 1 stitch back from right to left needle, purlwise ("SB"). P2tog. * SB 2 (the stitch just made + 1 more from right needle). P3tog. Repeat from * as needed. Or instead work a centered stacked decrease, but it'll be on the inside.
• For cuff, knit with furry yarn, 6 sts wide stockinette with slipped edges, then join (or 7 sts wide if slightly more than 1 skein is available). Make the cuff fit the head loosely, or, better, make it fit comfortably snug with the wool part inside. Match so outsides of both parts face outward, pin evenly at seam with locking stitch markers, then flip so bulk of seam falls to the inside of the cuff fold. Crochet edges together loosely (add extra chain stitches between) or use other attachment that's loose enough so that the whole thing stretches.

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